India

India Chapter 4: Juhu

Juhu beach is a famous beach in Mumbai. You won’t find people in their swimsuits sunbathing on the sand though. In fact, I’ve been told that you could find yourself having to explain yourself to a policeman if you gallivant around in a bikini.

To be honest, with the levels of attention that foreigners are given by the local Indian men, I wouldn’t really want to go to the beach skimpily clad.

Juhu Beach

I took this shot of my friend Meera getting mendhi painted on her arm on the beach. Local men soon gathered around us and stared like zombies. The scariest part is, when we asked them what they were looking at, they continued to stare at us completely expressionless.

We came across a man selling flutes.

Buying flutes on Juhu Beach

He started to show me all the different kinds he had. I accidentally gave him more money than he had asked for, and I was surprised by his honesty when he corrected me. It’s common for tourists to be ripped off.

By coincidence, it was Dussehra (the tenth and last day of the Navratri festival), and traditionally on this day people go down to the beach and throw statues of the goddess Durga into the sea, along with flowers and other holy material.

Some of this had been washed back onto the shore.

These boys picked up one statue that had been washed in with the tide, and went into the sea to re-immerse it.

They noticed me taking a picture of them and posed for me

This couple were getting their picture taken by one of the photographers who are constantly trying to persuade people to get snapped by them.

Something about it made me laugh – I think it’s the way they’re standing in the sea, almost like they don’t want to be there.

We came across a game where you try and throw a ring around a prize, just like you find at funfairs. The difference here is that the prize is a bar of soap

A beggar with her child..

The mother had the most beautiful turquoise-coloured eyes.

Suddenly, out of nowhere, it began to rain. When I say rain, I mean monsoon-style torrential rain – something I had never experienced before, and certainly not while being outdoors. The rain is so heavy it’s unimaginable and incredible. People started running away from the sea towards the road, shouting ‘Chalo (come on), chalo!’. We followed them completely bewildered wondering where we’d go for shelter.

Everyone ran towards a building and stood by the wall, which wasn’t really much help since there was no roof over us. We were obviously completely soaked (wearing a white top was not such a great idea either!).

This shot doesn’t really demonstrate how heavily it was raining, but I took that standing from what was apparently meant to be shelter.

All around us the pervy men were still staring, and after I took the above shot, one of them asked if he could take a picture of us. I thought it was strange but I let him take it. It didn’t come out well though (have you ever tried showing a complete newbie how to use a DSLR?!)

Since there was no real shelter, we decided to walk and try and catch a rickshaw so we could get back into town where we were meant to be meeting a friend, except there were no free rickshaws. So we walked some more and the rains fell harder. The roads were now beginning to flood and being completely unaccustomed to rains of this magnitide, we decided to gatecrash a nearby gathering of Hindus who were celebrating Dussehra.

They were having this outside but under a makeshift roof. As we walked in, everyone stared at us, probably amused by the sight they saw. We told one of them that we were stuck out in the rain and didn’t know what to do. They were really accomodating, and asked us to stay with them. They gave us food and showed us the temple.

This was the man who helped us, outside the temple room.

I called my friend who was stuck in the city in the horrendous traffic, and told him where we were so he could pick us up.

In the meantime we stayed under the roof and observed the chaotic scenes around us. To add to that, the makeshift roof collapsed causing everyone to scream like girls and run in all directions.

People passed by dancing in the rain, on their way to the beach to throw statues of Durga into the sea. I stood under a tree to take a video on my phone.

Yes, I know it’s not very clear. It was exciting and wonderful to see scenes of this sort though. Monsoon rains would not stop these people from celebrating the festival. Due to the rain I wasn’t able to take anymore pictures outside.

This was the last one

Thank goodness for that UV filter I bought just before I left for India :D

After my friend had picked us up, because of the flooded roads we couldn’t get back to the flat, so instead he took us to one of his relatives’ houses where we had to change our drenched clothes. We had no choice but to wear a 14 year-old boy’s clothes. We looked like a mess.

It’s hard to take emo-type shots using a DSLR. Maybe I just don’t have enough practice yet. :P
We went to a posh restaurant later looking absolutely awful.

This was one of my friend’s relatives whose home we went to to borrow some clothes. She’s holding what’s known as a garba, and was about to leave, in the awful weather, to head to the beach to immerse it. Now that’s called dedication.

The boy in the blue is whose clothes we had to wear.

His family were lovely. Oh and that woman in the previous shot made us the best Indian tea ever!

There are a few more stories from the monsoon saga that made this day unforgettable. I did think I’d never complain about the rain here in the UK again, but today I did just that ¬__¬

India Chapter 3: Garba In Mumbai

Navratri Festival – 23rd Sept – 2nd October ’06

I go to the Navratri festival every year in London – it’s a Hindu festival of dance and worship lasting 10 days. For 9 days, 9 goddesses are worshipped, and on the tenth day (Dussehra), an effigy of Ravana is burnt to celebrate the victory of good (Rama) over evil.

The actual dances that people take part in are called Garba. This year I was lucky enough to be in India during this time, so I took my camera along one night (only one because it’s hard to dance with a bulky camera!).

Meera + Me
Meera and myself (on the right), outside the grounds.

The stadium was more or less empty when we arrived.

Gauregaon

The prepared stage:

Garba stage

This was the biggest Garba gathering in Mumbai (located at Gauregaon) where a famous Indian singer called Falguni Pathak sings the songs that people dance to. Since we’d arrived early we were able to watch her take part in the Aarti. The Aarti is a religious Hindu song which is meant to be sung to develop the highest love for God (I didn’t know that – yay for wikipedia). It was performed right at the start when hardly anyone was there. This was surprising – in London it’s performed at some point in the night between Garba dances when the most people will be present. Isn’t it ironic how this important religious aspect is carried out in India at a time when the least people are present?

Falguni Pathak just before the Aarti was performed:

Falguni Pathak

Note in the background you can see a little statue of a god – usually this is placed in the centre and everyone dances around it, but I suppose because of the scale of this particular event, that wasn’t very practical, so it was kept at the front.

Some of the people watching the Aarti:

Aarti

As you can see, these girls are dressed traditionally, but many were not. This is another thing I found surprising – in the UK, everyone wears Indian outfits to Garba, but here in India it doesn’t really matter what you wear. Then again it’s so hot, that it’s definitely more practical to wear shorts for example, than traditional indian gear!

As the stadium began to fill up we ventured around the area. Meera wanted to go to the bathroom, and after being pointed in a vague direction, we finally found it.

Toilets
Yes, that’s right – the ‘bathroom’ was on a shabby patch of grass, behind a plank of wood, guarded by two vicious dogs.

Meera quickly lost her desire to go.

Instead we went to explore the food area. I noticed they had one of my favourite Indian foods – pani puri! I was so excited I furiously started taking pictures, to the amusement of people around me. I think these guys thought I was seriously insane. I was squealing like a little girl.

Pani Puri

Mmmm :D

By this time the grounds had filled up with people and the dancing was about to commence.

This guy was fun to watch

The biggest venues for this event have competitions with prizes for the best dressed male/female, best dancers etc., so it’s an incentive for people to dance their best. There were also many people filming the event which is broadcast on television, so again people want to impress. My friend Sheetal said she saw me on TV for about 3 secs the next day taking pictures of people haha

This girl was dancing really well

This girl is holding what’s called a dandiya which is basically a stick that some people dance with. Dandiya dancing is very popular during Navratri in the UK, but not so much in India – I hardly saw any people using them.

This next shot doesn’t really depict the scale of the event. This is probably about a quarter of the crowd. It was like being in a huge mosh pit full of sweaty Indians, under the stars :) It was simply amazing.

These guys were dancing brilliantly. As you can see, groups dance around in their own circle, and people are free to join in, or watch. Usually when people are dancing like this, it’s safer to just stand back and watch, rather than get elbowed in the eye!

He fell over ;P

These two taught me some of the steps which was nice of them. In London I’m usually one of the better people at garba dancing but it’s nothing compared to how they dance over in India – I felt like I was rubbish!

The guy on the right won one of the awards that night.

This woman is a famous Indian news presenter who came over to our group.

Someone noticed my camera and asked me to go in the middle of the circle with her; he thought I was part of the news crew haha. I didn’t realise I looked that convincing as a pro ;)

What gorgeous eyes, eh?

I have heaps more pictures including some on Meera’s camera which I may upload later.

Garba in India was a breathtaking experience. Photographs can’t truly represent the electric atmosphere. It’s so different to the festival in the UK. People in the UK seem to treat it as a fashion parade and go mostly to check out members of the opposite sex. In India there’s a real feel of enthusiasm and passion for the actual dancing. It’s wonderful to see.

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